Visiting the DMZ was never about ticking off a tourist attraction. It was a day we chose because we wanted to understand more about the history that shaped the Korean peninsula and the people who live here. We knew it would be heavier than our usual travel days, but we also knew it was important. As a travelling family, we want our kids to learn from the world directly, not just from textbooks, and this experience gave us perspective we could never have gained any other way.
We started our morning with a drive past Imjingak Pyeonghoa Nuri Park, a beautiful open space created as a symbol of peace and reunification on the Korean peninsula. Even before the tour properly began, our guide was already teaching us so much. She explained the history in a way that felt calm, clear and easy to follow, even for the kids.
Gamaksan Chulleong Suspension Bridge
Our first stop was the Gamaksan Chulleong Bridge, one of Korea’s longest suspension bridges at 150 metres. The walk up only takes about 15 minutes, but it is definitely a little challenging. As we made our way up, I found myself appreciating that we’re doing this trip at a stage of life where we can still take on these kinds of climbs and enjoy them. It was a good reminder of why we chose to travel now rather than “one day.”
For anyone wondering:
- There are toilets before you head up
- Bubblers and convenience stores are nearby
- You don’t need to pack heaps of water if you prefer travelling light (like us)
Once we reached the top, the view was incredible. Peaceful mountains that once witnessed fierce battles during the Korean War. That contrast stayed with me all day.
Korean Buffet Lunch
Lunch was an optional extra (10,000 KRW per person, roughly $10 AUD) and honestly such good value. It was an all‑you‑can‑eat Korean buffet with:
- Meats
- Stews
- Rice
- A huge variety of side dishes
- And yes… chicken nuggets for the kids (and the adults, let’s be honest)
It was relaxed, tasty, and exactly what we needed before the heavier part of the day.
Meeting a North Korean Defector
After lunch, we visited a centre where we met a North Korean defector and heard her firsthand story. Before she spoke, they played a short video with real footage, and I think that was the moment the kids truly understood what this tour was about.
Her story was deeply moving in a way that is hard to put into words. Listening to someone describe their escape, knowing that survival was never guaranteed, is something you carry with you. We approached the moment with respect, simply listening, learning and trying to understand even a fraction of what she had lived through.
There was also a small souvenir shop where you could buy clothing, skincare, coffee, and even North Korean currency. All profits support defectors rebuilding their lives.
The Third Tunnel
Next was the Third Invasion Tunnel, part of the DMZ. You need to be reasonably fit for this one — it’s steep, narrow, and you’re bending over for much of the walk.
A few practical notes:
- Phones aren’t allowed; lockers are provided
- You pass through metal detectors before entering
- It gets cooler the further down you go
- Bubblers are available at the bottom
- Hard hats are essential (you’ll understand why quickly!)
At the end of the tunnel, you can look through a small window toward North Korea. What surprised me most was how green it was. Even though you’re still inside the tunnel, the viewing point faces open land above ground level. Because the DMZ has been off limits to people for decades, nature has completely taken over. No farming, no construction, no human activity. The result is an accidental wildlife sanctuary, full of dense vegetation that thrives simply because humans aren’t allowed in. Seeing that much life in such a historically tense place was something I didn’t expect.
The walk back up is steep, but there are chairs along the wall if you need a break. The kids thought it was hilarious running past everyone on the way up.
Seeing North Korea from Dora Observatory
Our final stop was Dora Observatory, the northernmost point of the western front. After another short uphill walk, we reached the viewing platform where you can see:
- Gaeseong Industrial Complex
- Songhaksan Mountain
- And North Korean territory through free binoculars
Standing there, looking across the border, listening to our guide explain more history… it was a moment full of mixed emotions. Curiosity, sadness, hope, gratitude, all of it at once.
There were toilets and a café here too.
Final Thoughts
This tour was easily our most memorable experience in Korea. Educational, reflective, and something we’ll carry with us for a long time. It’s not a lighthearted day, but it’s an important one. We learned so much, felt so much, and left with a deeper understanding of the history that shapes this region.
If you’re travelling Korea and want a tour that goes beyond sightseeing, this one is hard to beat.
If you are planning a DMZ tour, you can book the exact tour we did below.
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